Maui
Note: 90% of our time has been spent staying in the Ka'anapali area, so most of our time has been spent between Kapalua (north of Ka'anapali) and Lahaina (south of Ka'anapali). There are other great places to enjoy (e.g. Wailea - where we stayed for a few days in May 2018), but we have less experience there, so those places are not covered as much here.
Activities:
Sports:
Golf
Favorite courses: Wailea Emerald and Gold courses, Ka’anapali courses (both), Kapalua Plantation ($$$). Absolutely beautiful, but very pricy….. I believe the cheapest of these is still $100 or more, and the Plantation course is $300 or more.
Tip: Try Maui Nui Golf Club (formerly Elleair Golf Club), not far from Wailea. Nice course, nice views, and Chuck shot his best score ever (83) back in 2013.
We also have played Waiehu, nearly Wailuku, probably ~2005, and the Pukalani course in approximately 2015. Waiehu is easily the cheapest course we played on Maui, not bad shape - but the flies and bugs that swarm you on the back 9 (at least 10 years ago) made it really annoying. Pukalani was a pretty good course, but if you’re playing there, get there early! We were on approximately the 16th hole at ~5:00 p.m., and were forced to drive off the course and return the golf cart, even though there was plenty of daylight left. Very strange.
Hiking
Lots of trails in the West Maui mountains. Try to find a hike that takes you to the Iao Valley, which is beautiful.
Sailing
Trilogy (charter company) sails out of Lahaina and Ka'anapali are fun. The always have good crews, and deliver on what they promise.
You can go on snorkel sails, trips to Lana’i, “speed” sails, or dinner cruises. All are fun.
Snorkeling / Scuba
Snorkel Bob’s is probably the best, most affordable place to get snorkeling equipment on the island. They have several outlets, including in Honokowai (just north of Ka’anapali), Lahaina, and Kihei. Tip: Do not rent snorkel equipment from your resort, it will be super-expensive compared to Snorkel Bob’s, which you can rent for days or a week.
Good places to snorkel include Ka’anapali beaches, Honolua Bay (near Kapalua), and La Perouse Bay (south of Wailea, you have to go “off-road” base the end of the road, so make sure you have an appropriate vehicle for the trip). Tip: Black Rock near the Sheraton in Ka'anapali is very popular….. but for a more interesting way of getting there, take off from the beach north of the Sheraton property, and snorkel around the bend to Black Rock. Chuck did that a few years ago, and in the crystal blue water, saw about a 6-foot shark, a stingray, and a large diving turtle. Definitely more interesting than just a few colored fish!
Molokini is a popular spot off the southwest part of the island (Wailea), it is generally full of commercial snorkeling excursions. We have never snorkeled there, as we prefer a little more privacy (i.e. not crawling over other people to carve out space), but we do understand that there are tons of beautiful fish and coral to see if you do go to Molokini.
Ziplining
Shelley went zip-lining in Kapalua several years ago, and really enjoyed it. Check it out!
Sightseeing
Road to Hana
Full disclosure: Chuck has never made it all the way to Hana. On our only joint attempt to make it (Shelley has been there separately), we had to turn around about 8 miles before we reached Hana, due to road construction. The drive is beautiful, but very long…… at least 3 hours from Ka'anapali, over 2 hours from Paia. The magic is in the drive - nature at its finest in many places. Hana itself is apparently only “okay,” but the enjoyable part is actually getting there rather than being there. Bring a camera and be prepared to take a lot of photos and make a lot of stops along the way.
Mt. Haleakala
The not-so-dormant volcano that dominates the eastern part of Maui….. it has one of the most beautiful sunrises in the world, as the sun peeks over the top of the crater and through the clouds. Take one of the "Haleakala Sunrise” tours, particularly the bike tour….. you get picked up at your hotel before 2:00 a.m. (yeah, I know), they bring you to a place where you’re fitted with gear and a bike, they take you up to the top of the mountain for the sunrise, and then you bike down with beautiful views and hardly a need to pedal at all. (And you stop to take photos along the way.) Tip: even in Hawaii, when you’re at 10,000 feet of altitude at 4:00 or 5:00 in the morning, it is COLD. Prepare accordingly, with layers. (Yes, the tours will give you cold-weather gear.)
Beaches
Note: from our experience, none of the beaches on Maui have “services”, other than potentially restrooms. You’re pretty much going to be on your own in terms of arranging food and drinks, and most of your entertainment. This said, here are some of the most popular beaches on Maui.
Ka’anapali - the beach runs for miles in front of the resorts, generally with 1-2 foot tall rolling waves. It’s just beautiful; grab a mai tai, a book, some sunscreen, and call it an afternoon as you look out at Lana’i and Molokai.
Kapalua - we’ve been to Honolua Bay near Kapalua once or twice on snorkeling excursions….. the beaches look pretty darn nice here.
Wailea - due to our limited time spent in Wailea, we can't comment specifically on these beaches, but they are reputed to be pretty awesome.
Ho’okipa - a different kind of beach, located in Paia (north shore, off the Hana Highway). Ho’okipa is a possibly the most renowned windsurfing spot in the world, with generally pretty high winds, and a rough surf break over the limited area that is “safe” to enter the water (much of the shoreline is rocks, there is only about a 20-30 yard stretch which isn’t rocky….. and due to the rough waves, it is not safe for beginning swimmers or young kids to go in). But if you want to just sit on the sand, get some rays, listen to music, and watch some great wind-surfing and kite-surfing while not having to deal with a crowd on the beach, this is the place for you.
Shopping / Strolling
Lahaina
Front Street runs right along the water, and has a stretch of about 3/4 of a mile which is heavily populated with stores and restaurant. There are mainly 4 types of stores:
Art galleries - some very good art galleries exist….. we’ve bought several pieces from Lahaina Galleries (which has other locations) over the years. Tip: many of the galleries have “wine and cheese” or “meet the artist” events on Friday and surrounding nights, so if you like just hanging around and looking at art with a glass of wine in your hand, take some time when you arrive to understand what events are happening, and when.
Jewelry - lots of good deals abound, and you can haggle with the merchants somewhat. As with any jewelry purchase, take a good look at what you’re getting, make sure the quality is good, and you can get a good deal, especially on pearls and gems such as sapphires and emeralds.
Souvenirs. T-shirts, swimsuits, Maui coffee, nuts, etc….. are available in many places. The ABC Store is a chain with many locations around the Hawaiian Islands, it’s a good place to get just about anything you need (sort of like a larger upscale 7-Eleven).
Miscellaneous, including services that will help you find cheap tours and excursions. We’ve never tried these, but I suspect they’re okay, as long as you understand what you’re actually getting for your money.
Whaler’s Village (Ka’anapali)
An open-air small mall, right next to the Westin hotel, with “Hula Grill” and “Leilani’s on the Beach” restaurants facing the beach. They have a few small high-end stores (e.g. Coach, Swarovski), some mid-range shops, some art and jewelry stores, souvenirs, etc….. and even an ABC Store. It won’t take long to visit this, but can be a quick place to stop if you need something or just need to kill a little time walking around.
Ka'anapali resorts - at least once/week, there is an artisan’s / crafts fair that is held by the Westin (near the beach), where you can meet local artists selling their goods, which include everything from food to soap to furniture to beautiful works of art. Check out the schedule and details on these when you arrive.
Wailea
As noted above, we’ve spent much less time in Wailea, but there is a nice, upscale (high-end) mall known as the Shops at Wailea. Wallets beware, as there is a Tiffany’s, Prada, and a few other similar stores mixed in with more basic shops such as Banana Republic and Billabong.
Kihei
Located just north of Wailea, Kihei is the most “commercial” town on the island, aside from Kahului (near the airport). There are a lot of condos and local housing, and non-touristy shopping centers and local restaurants.
EATing:
Maui is all about seafood; most restaurants’ menus are based around fresh, local seafood, including mahi mahi, opakapaka, ahi tuna, opah, lobster, shrimp/prawns, calamari, and crab.
2 other strong influences: Asian / fusion style; and local greens and vegetables, which are always fresh. If eaten in moderation (which can be tough), Hawaiian cuisine is generally lighter and healthier than most.
General guidelines:
Sorted into “Adult” restaurants, which are generally pretty fancy, expensive, romantic, special-occasion’ish, and “Kids”, which are more casual (but still a step way above fast food), focusing on sandwiches and simpler fare. “Kids” places tend to be more family-oriented, with louder, more hopping atmospheres.
Entrées at “Adult” restaurants will be ~$30 - $50 (possibly more). A romantic dinner for 2, with a bottle of wine, will probably cost $150-200 at a minimum.
Entrées at “Kids” restaurants will be $12 - $30, depending on the place and “sophistication” of the dish.
We’ve tried to indicate the most recent time we’ve eaten at the different places by noting the year in parentheses at the end of the “review” (e.g. 2013)
Kapalua
Kids and Adults
Gazebo restaurant (breakfast) - okay, Shelley and I aren’t breakfast people, but we had heard so much about this little (only 14 table) restaurant at the (very) modest Napili Shores condominium complex just south of Kapalua that we had to get up early and try it - and we did not regret it. Their massive bowl of fried rice (yes, for breakfast), and huge plates of macadamia nut pancakes are practically worth flying to the island just to experience. Arrive at least 45-60 minutes before it opens for breakfast, or you’ll be waiting at least an hour, because it is very popular, and equally tiny. (2019)
Adults
Merriman’s - considered by many to be the best “elegant” restaurant on Maui, located near the ocean. Beautiful grounds, and extremely popular (you will likely need to have valet parking), with a beautiful deck area for a cocktail. We've eaten dinner at Merriman's twice (2009 and 2015), and while it's been good both times, it hasn't stood out above other restaurants, in our opinion. What we’ve enjoyed more is getting there an hour or two before sunset and having a couple of appetizers and drinks on the deck while the sun goes down. (2019)
Plantation House restaurant - located in the clubhouse at the Kapalua Plantation golf course. Fancy, pricy, but a fantastic meal and view. (2007?)
Ka’anapali:
Kids
Leilani’s on the Beach - located in Whaler’s Village shopping center, next to the Westin Maui hotel. Good, fresh food, and great view of the beach. (2018)
Hula Grill - located right next to Leilani’s, it’s affiliated with Duke’s and Kimo’s (Lahaina). At one or more of the 3, places, it’s imperative to have a Mai Tai and a dessert of their famous Hula Pie. (2017)
Monkeypod - also in the Whaler’s Village shopping center, facing the beach but not beachfront. This is the second location for the restaurant (primary is in Wailea); it gets rave reviews, and we enjoyed it, but didn’t feel it was as transcendent as described. (2019)
Duke’s - located on the beach at the very northern end of Ka'anapali, at the Honua Kai resort. If you’re staying at that part of Ka’anapali, having a drink or two at Duke’s is a great way to end the night. Affiliated with Hula Grill and Kimo’s (Lahaina). (2019)
Lahaina
Lots of places, it's where we usually hang out for food when we’re not cooking something ourselves. Top suggestions:
Adults
Lahaina Grill - Probably our favorite dining spot on the island. We visit it almost every time we go, and everything we’ve eaten there has been fantastic. (2018)
Gerard’s - French restaurant, have dined there time several times over the years, most recently in 2019. Phenomenal service. Located about 2 blocks inland, at the Plantation Inn. A bit of a hidden treasure. (2019)
Mala Ocean Tavern - Visited in 2011, great meal, would definitely go back. Looks like a small shack overlooking the water, but the food is terrific. (2011)
Pacific’O - Excellent seafood, it’s located in a small shopping area at the very southern end of Lahaina. We had a table outside near the water, making for a great view. (2013)
Fleetwood’s on Front Street - We ate here with friends in 2013, neat experience with a guy playing the bagpipe at dusk…. it’s owned by Mick Fleetwood of Fleetwood Mac, who apparently stops by every now and then (he hasn't done so any of the nights we've been there). Good, not great food. If you go, make sure to reserve very early (i.e. weeks in advance) and ask for a table on the roof along the water. (2017)
Star Noodle - Good, and extremely popular, Asian fusion cuisine. It's gotten a lot of press, which is well-deserved - we ate here for the first time in 2017 and enjoyed it. Unlike the other Lahaina restaurants, it is not on Front Street - it's a few blocks inland, across the highway and up a hill. Make a reservation in advance, or prepare for a lengthy wait to get in. (2017)
Sale Pepe - Excellent, semi-casual Italian restaurant (including pizza) which opened in 2016. This is, simply put, our “go to” restaurant when we’re in Ka’anapali and want an excellent, inexpensive meal in Lahaina. Fantastic pizzas, pastas, and drinks - we loved it enough to go back twice during our most recent trip in 2019. (2019)
Kids
Old Lahaina Luau - because of the entertainment involved, it’s fairly expensive, but very casual in nature. Considered the best luau on Maui. (2011)
Kimo’s - affiliated with Duke’s and Hula Grill, share a common (or at least similar) menu. Treat yourself to a mud pie and Mai Tai at at least one of these restaurants. (2017)
Bubba Gump's - pretty good seafood and memorabilia, based off the Forrest Gump theme. Worth a visit if you’ve never been to one, ask for a table by the water! (2009)
Cheeseburger in Paradise - right on the water, they have live music most nights, but also typically a pretty long line to get in. Time it right and it can be fun. (2011)
Hard Rock Café - cookie-cutter version of the Hard Rock Cafés from all over the world, but you’re on Maui. Across from Bubba Gump’s, so it’s not right on the water, but close.
Paia:
Adults
Mama’s Fish House - very fresh fish, possibly the most well-known restaurant on the island. Very good, but potentially a bit over-rated (it is spoken about in almost mythical proportions), and very expensive. (2011)
Wailea:
Adults
Ko (at the Fairmont Kea Lani Resort) - Excellent fusion food, though a little pricey. We would recommend it, partly to enjoy the lobby and other beautiful parts of the hotel. (2015)
Nick's Fishmarket (at the Fairmont Kea Lani Resort) - Pricey, as would be expected, but worth it. Choosing between the two, our experience at Nick's was better in every aspect (food, service, atmosphere) than our experience at Ko, which is saying something. We re-confirmed the quality in 2018 - everything remained terrific during this second visit. (2018)
Gannon's (at the Wailea Golf Course) - Chef Bev Gannon has been a trailblazer in bringing great food to Maui, and this is one of her places. Simple food done really well, and if you sit out on the deck, you'll have a great view of a hole or two and the coastline. (2015)
Tommy Bahama (in the Shops at Wailea shopping center) - yeah, I know. Tommy Bahama’s is a clothing store. But they also have a fantastic restaurant here, with great food and drinks. (2019)
Monkeypod (shopping center about 2 blocks from the Shops at Wailea) - the original location of the restaurant, which gets rave reviews. See the “review” in the Ka’anapali section; good, but possibly over-rated. But they do have great, unique mai tais, so there’s that….. (2018)
Morimoto Maui (on the grounds of the Andaz Maui) - honestly, amongst the most disappointing meals we’ve had on Maui. We had high expectations of this restaurant from the noted Iron Chef, but the food wasn’t very good, original, or prepared well, despite being pretty expensive. (2018)
Secret Find: Hali’imaile
Adults
Hali’imaile General Store - About 10 minutes from the airport, this Bev Gannon restaurant is truly in the middle of nowhere, and had been a hidden treasure for years. Unfortunately, as of 2017, it is no longer "hidden", and seems to be trading on its reputation to a certain extent. While the food is still excellent, service has slipped from the past, but it is still a good experience if you are anywhere nearby.. (2017)
Places to Stay:
Kapalua
Very upscale….. we’ve never stayed here, it (along with Wailea) is the “ritzy” place on the island, which is appropriate, since it has the spectacularly beautiful Ritz-Carlton hotel and grounds. Even if you’re not staying there, it’s fun to just walk through the property and enjoy the nearby shoreline while sipping a cocktail.
Ka’anapali
Can be viewed as 2 separate developments: southern Ka'anapali (Sheraton and everything south) and northern Ka'anapali (everything north of the Sheraton).
Southern Ka'anapali - was developed in the 1960’s as a planned resort community, with the Hyatt, Marriott, Westin, and Sheraton as cornerstone hotels, interspersed with a number of timeshare and condominium buildings. Most of the buildings were built in the ’60’s, but have been maintained and updated over the years to stay current. We stayed at the Westin Maui on our honeymoon (1999), and the Hyatt Regency on a couple of vacations in ensuing years…. both properties are highly recommended (though expensive), with great amenities, beautiful pools, and lots of restaurants and activities.
Northern Ka'anapali - has been a more recent development activity, with several new timeshare properties being developed and now stretching to the southern edge of Honokawai. Our timeshare, where we’ve stayed several times, is the Westin Ka'anapali Ocean Resort Villas, consisting of the original “South” and slightly newer “North” property next door to it. (Both built since 2005, so they’re both still new.) Both properties are frequently under-reserved, so you might want to check into whether you can just stay there, similar to booking a hotel. These units are highly recommended, particularly the “larger” (non-studio) side….. every room has a kitchen in it. and there’s lots of good views and amenities at both properties.
Also in Northern Ka’anapali is the newer Westin Nanea property, just north of the other 2 Westin properties, with construction finished in ~2017. Shelley and I have stayed there once - a beautiful property, but (in our opinion) too much was built into too small a space, and everything seems crammed together. Very, very popular with families with young kids, if you’re looking for a quiet, relaxing resort to enjoy “alone time” as a couple, there are probably better choices.
Wailea
Wailea has a lot of the splashiest, most beautiful and pricey hotels on the island, including the Grand Wailea, the Four Seasons Resort, Andaz Maui, the Fairmont Kea Lani Resort, and the venerable Grand Wailea Resort. In pre-Chuck days, Shelley stayed at the Kea Lani with friends, and noted that it is absolutely spectacular….. in 2018, we stayed for 4 or 5 nights at the Grand Wailea, which has tremendous grounds and is in a perfect, centralized location within walking distance of the Shops at Wailea and the other beautiful resorts nearby. Unless you have appropriate hotel points to redeem, be prepared to spend several hundred dollars a night on the rooms in these magnificent properties.
A Great Day on Maui:
Get up early and take the Road to Hana. (Start by 7:00 a.m.)
After arriving at Hana, walk around, have a nice lunch, and depart by 1:00 or so
Stop at Hookipa Beach on the way back, and enjoy 2-3 hours on the beach watching great windsurfing, kitesurfing, and very little intrusion by other beach-goers. (Bring your swimsuit and some music!)
Change your clothes, and drive next door to Mama’s Fish House, and enjoy a great dinner! (Reservations needed, or at least highly recommended, so plan ahead….)
Try to stay awake as you drive back to your resort!